Within the province of Sivas, in central Anatolia, sits the tiny rural village of Esenyaka Koyu. With a population of just 1,858 (Wikipedia 2000), the village is a short 15km drive from the nearby township of Susehri. When I came to Turkey, I came in search of this country’s heart and soul. I didn’t come […]
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Esenyaka – the heart and soul of Turkey

Arrival in Antalya – Getting to Kaleici
On stepping out the exit doors at Antalya airport you immediately understand you’re at something of a tourism hub. Instead of the usual taxi ranks, a long line-up of dozens of bus ticketing booths to nearby seaside resorts awaits you. After pacing the length of the bus booths for a few minutes you’ll eventually discover […]

Arriving in Izmir – Getting to Basmane
The process for exiting Izmir’s Adnan Menderes (ADB) airport and finding your way to the central Basmane railway station is fairly straightforward. On exiting the airport building go straight across the road and follow the signs for the Izban railway station. A descending escalator will take you to the Izban platforms and ticket booth where […]

Turkish village – paradise or ‘pipe-dream’?
For years I’ve quietly harboured a simple, secret dream – to find a small, peaceful village somewhere in the milder, sunnier southern regions of Turkey where I might live a healthy, outdoors life, planting and growing green things in the earth. A simple life, surrounded by nature and the warmth and camaraderie of friendly, warm-hearted […]
Culture

Tavla and Okey – not just for the kids
If you want to make new Turkish friends, learning to play Tavla (backgammon) and Okey is a great idea. Board games can be seen everywhere in Turkey – in cafes, tea-houses, restaurants, in the parks and gardens, at the markets. How nice to see not just kids, but also teens and adults sitting around in […]

Discovering Turkish music – a never-ending story
Turkish Pop A couple of embarrassing admissions: It’s probably true to say that the first Turkish song I’d ever listened to, without knowing it, was the cringe-worthy Aussie cover version (Holly Valance) of Tarkan’s Şımarık. I thought Tarkan’s music was fantastic and proceeded to fill home, car and exercise with sounds from Tarkan and Dudu. Sounded […]
Food & Drink

Turkish Tea – Friends for Life
To share tea and bright conversation with a Turkish friend is one of life’s great joys. The simple act of its preparation brings the sense of calm and familiarity upon which great friendships are built, stories shared, and occasions celebrated. All the elements of this familiar and reassuring ritual – the preparation, the aroma, the […]

It’s winter, and that means…hamsi days!!!
Today I fulfilled another dream here in Turkey. Buying fresh hamsi, in season (winter), here at a local fish market (balik Pazar), and preparing a plate of this legendary pan-fried delight. The last (only) time I’ve cooked (assisted actually) hamsi was many years ago in North London – not the same. Has to be experienced […]